World-renowned Master Sommeliers Explore the Charm of Winter-Brewed Huangjiu: An Eastern Dialogue with Time

Shaoxing Wine · Dongqu

July 10, 2025 | 20:00 | Shanghai

The lingering finish of champagne had barely faded when the Master Sommeliers embarked on a new journey.

The glittering "CMS2000 Celebration" at the Shanghai Garden Hotel had just concluded, yet the six legendary masters of the wine world quietly departed the bustling metropolis.

They had crossed half the globe, drawn by a legend that demands the patience of time —— In the radiant summer of Jiangnan, Dongqu invited them into the winery, beginning a pilgrimage to Chinese Huangjiu—a tale of waiting, tradition, and the pursuit of extraordinary flavor.

01: Listening to the Future Aroma in Silence: The Masters' Prelude

Though the fiery heat of July still lingers, far from the winter brewing season, the air in the winery is already thick with anticipation for the next harvest. The Masters may not have witnessed the lively scenes of steaming rice, fermenting vats, or the rhythmic stirring of the mash—yet in the stillness, they grasped the very essence of Shaoxing wine's artistry.

The Living Waters: They paused by Jianhu Lake, contemplating these ancient waters revered as the "blood of wine" – crystal-clear and timeless, the primordial element that gives Shaoxing wine its soul.

Time in a Jar: Rows upon rows of clay jars stood quietly, waiting to be filled. These simple, time-worn vessels would soon hold the new brew for its long aging journey. The Masters gently touched the rough surfaces, almost picturing the wine slowly maturing inside, developing its character day by day.

Decoding the Craft: Inside the Huangjiu Museum, the traditional brewing process of Shaoxing wine unfolded clearly through detailed illustrations and models - from rice soaking, steaming, and vat fermentation to pressing, pasteurization, and clay-jar aging. Each intricate step captivated the Masters' keen interest.

"How is the fermentation temperature precisely controlled to develop such complex flavors?"
"What's the fundamental difference between clay-jar aging and oak-barrel maturation on the wine's character?"
"How do you interpret and master the flavor evolution that time brings to Shaoxing wine?"

Questions flowed like a spring. Instinctively, they drew upon their deep knowledge of winemaking as a reference point, seeking footholds of understanding in this profound yet unfamiliar Eastern brewing tradition.

French Master Sommelier Pierre Pattieu MS marveled: "This profound respect for nature's rhythms and absolute patience with time share the same philosophy as fine winemaking, yet reveal a distinctly Eastern wisdom."

Brian Julyan MS, Chairman of the Court of Master Sommeliers and Britain's first Master Sommelier (1972), reflected: "While we know every vintage detail of Bordeaux and Burgundy's grand crus, we stand in awe before this 2,000-year-old brewing art that moves in harmony with the seasons. The true fermentation hasn't begun, yet every preparation already speaks of a commitment to extraordinary flavor."

02: Dumplings as Gestures: The Chinese Art of Heartfelt Hospitality

As the visit drew to a close, Dongqu hosted a farewell dinner brimming with quintessential Chinese warmth.

The spotlight wasn't on extravagant delicacies, but on steaming plates of handmade dumplings, their crescent shapes glowing under the light.

This was no random choice. In Chinese tradition, the custom of "dumplings for departure, noodles for arrival" carries profound meaning. Serving these dumplings to honored guests from afar embodied a heartfelt message - a wish for safe travels, and the hope of meeting again.

When the Masters learned the heartfelt meaning behind this unique dining tradition, their faces lit up with surprise and emotion.

In the warm, convivial atmosphere, glasses were raised (filled, naturally, with exquisite Dongqu Shaoxing wine) as they savored the dumplings imbued with wellwishes. At that moment, the distance between East and West dissolved amidst food and wine, while a cultural resonance quietly took

root - both on the palate and in the heart.

Brian Julyan MS

· Britain's First Master Sommelier (1972)
· Founding Chairman of the Court of Master Sommeliers
· Pioneer of global sommelier education
· Directed the cellars at London's Claridge's for decades

Ronan Sayburn MS
· Current CEO of the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS)
· Former Wine Director of London's legendary 67 Pall Mall
· Founder of The RS Wine Academy

Nigel Wilkinson MS

· Renowned wine critic
· Judge for the Decanter World Wine Awards
· 20-year veteran in luxury F&B beverage consulting

Pierre Pattieu MS

· Director of Asian Estates at Jackson Family Wines
· Master Sommelier (2022)

Arnaud Bardary MS

· Business Development Director at Watson’s Wine
· Master Sommelier (2015)
· Specialist in Asia’s premium wine market

Yohann Jousselin MS

· Head of Fine Wines at Kerry Wines
· Master Sommelier (2009)

03: Amber Nectar: A Taste of Time's Philosophy

At the banquet, the Masters encountered once more that amber-hued elixir tempered by time.

As the decade, aged artisanal Shaoxing wine flowed into specially crafted glasses, releasing its complex yet elegant bouquet, Master Sommelier Yohann Jousselin marveled: "This transcends any ordinary alcoholic drink—it is Eastern philosophy in liquid form. A harmonious unity of rice, water, koji, time, and craftsmanship... the very art of balancing strength with subtlety."

This dialogue of terroir, time, and craftsmanship may have reached its intermission, yet the beauty of handcrafted winter-brewed Shaoxing wine has already rippled across the memories of the world's most discerning palates.

An ancient yet vibrant taste civilization is now, through the lens of these gustatory authorities, quietly entering the global consciousness.

In the cellar, countless clay jars—the silent cradles of Dongqu—stand vigil, embracing their decade-long pact with time. Within them, the liquid jewel continues its gradual alchemy with the passing seasons.

We firmly believe these amber treasures, infused with Eastern wisdom, will ultimately find their way to the workstations of Michelin-starred chefs in Paris, the private cellars of London's discerning collectors, and the elite tasting salons of New York…

When these Master Sommeliers next raise their glasses to narrate the story of Shaoxing's winter-brewed artistry to global audiences, they will convey more than just astonishing flavors—they will transmit a 2,000-year-old brewing epic, still being written by an entire civilization's enduring hand.

On Shaoxing Huangjiu's journey to the world,
There is no final stop—only the next destination.
No borders—only new encounters.

Awaiting winter's arrival, when the finest brew comes to life.
Dumplings as gifts, carrying profound friendship.

A dialogue between millennia-old craft and modern palates,
In silent anticipation and flavors that resonate—
Here, now, the finish lingers.

Amber nectar, a world within.
One cup of Dongqu, Four seasons of delight. Cheers!